I had my first surfing lesson today!

I’ve been at my new host’s house since after school on Monday, and it’s been a pretty low key week. This host family consists of K and Jan, who have two 20-something kids who live overseas at the current time. Jan’s brother and sister stayed with us from Tuesday until this morning, so that was fun to talk with them as well. With the days being so short, and the drive to the school being about 45 minutes, there isn’t often much daylight by the time we get home. This means that even though I’m right on the beach I’ve only gotten to take some dusk/late evening walks down by the water. I tried to combat the fact that this early darkness was sabotaging my running time by setting my alarm to go for a morning run, but I ended up sitting on my bed staring out the window waiting for the sun to rise haha. Since we have to leave the house at 6:50 am, I finally ended up going out at 5:45 am (when the bats were still flying home overhead!) and only getting in about a half hour run before having to rush home and shower and eat breakfast. I hope it doesn’t sound like I’m complaining though because I love being out here! It’s just another different experience which is so much fun to have. I’m really happy with the fact that I’m moving houses each week, it’s a very neat way to meet lots of people and do so much. The house I’m staying in this week is gorgeous and I really can’t get over the fact that I can see the ocean through the trees in the backyard.

So every day this week we had been getting home right before dark. Until today! We left the school right at 3:00 to get home quickly and go SURFING! We went to Woolgoolga beach – which was SO beautiful – and I got some quick tips, and tried some quick jump-ups on the sand, before heading into the water. My host, K, had me do a few different small things, like leaning my weight on the board while jumping some waves and just paddling around to get used to the feel of being on the board. For the first few waves I tried to ride in (on my stomach still) I ended up falling off every one! I quickly realized that I was too far forward on the board, and I didn’t miss one after that! I couldn’t wipe the huge smile off my face while riding each one in to the beach. K went to the beach to grab the camera, and he didn’t want me going too far out without him, so I actually ended up missing the first few he tried to take a picture of because I was too close into shore! I went out a little further and then caught one last wave before the sun was setting. I think we were only out for about a half hour or so, and K said I did great for my first lesson. I’m glad we decided we’d just work on getting a feel for the board without standing today, because that made it really relaxed. I really don’t see how I’ll be able to stand on the board as a wave carries it lol, but apparently it’s possible.

Whether I end up being able to stand by my last lesson or not, it was still so much fun to try something new and it was really fun to ride the waves in on my stomach!

Missing the wave haha
Missing the wave haha
Got it! 


1 thought on “Surfing”

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